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The basics are important, and need to be respected.
But there are other mores that may not be quite
so obvious. In fact, you may not think about them
at all, but they can greatly improve the overall
vibe in a lineup for everyone:
- Give a wave
That’s right, give someone a wave. There
may be no single gesture that can stoke the
mood in the water more, while simultaneously
upping your karma points. And if someone else
gives you a wave, turn around and give it back.
The process is infectious. Owl Chapman said
it best in the landmark film Surfers: The Movie
(1988), “Instead of (surfers) always taking,
taking, taking – give a wave. Give a wave!”
- Stay out of people’s way
If you’re paddling out and someone else
is taking off, do what you have to do to get
out of their way. Paddle into the pit if necessary.
When waves are in short supply, there’s
nothing more frustrating than having a “buoy”
float right in the pocket of the wave, ruining
a ride. Instead of always scratching for the
shoulder in order to keep your hair dry, think
about doubling back behind a surfer, and taking
one on the head. Additionally, don’t paddle
out in the line of fire. Take a look at where
surfers are positioned in the water before you
paddle out, and choose a path that’s going
to keep you out of the way.
- Spot hostility, and avoid it
If there’s a local heavy in the water,
stay out of his way. If you’ve made a rookie
mistake or wronged another surfer, apologize
sincerely. If trouble still escalates, leave
the water altogether. As the cliché goes,
nobody wins in a fight – not you, the other
surfer, nor anyone else in the water.
- Tread lightly
A surf spot at any given time is a delicate
ecosystem, full of complex moods, personalities,
and actions. Understand how your presence impacts
that environment, both positively and negatively.
If you’re a visiting surfer, keep a low
profile. Don’t bring a crowd with you.
If you want to surf with others, bring a single
friend. Better yet, surf alone. If the spot
is already overcrowded, consider surfing elsewhere.
- Leave the mobile phone at home
Not to be a technology curmudgeon, but mobile
phones have contributed more to modern crowding
than perhaps any other factor. However, as with
most technology, it’s not the advancement
itself that is the issue, but the mentality
behind it. If you want to go surfing with your
friends, then great – make a plan together.
But if you simply feel the need to always alert
your friends to good conditions that you’ve
stumbled upon, avoid the temptation. Joel Turner
(name changed), a San Francisco regular, puts
it more succinctly. “If your buddy can’t
get his lazy ass out of bed, then snooze = lose.”
Remember, every phone call you make has the
ability to exponentially increase the crowd,
and that impacts both you and your fellow surfer.
- Surf locations and conditions that befit
your ability
A heads up to all you beginners and intermediates
out there: You don’t need to be surfing
the premier breaks, nor should you be. Paddling
out in the middle of grinding Ocean Beach on
a northwest swell or at the Point at Steamer
Lane on a solid southwest swell is hardly going
to ingratiate you with the local crew. Plus,
you’ll be putting yourself and others at
risk.
- Don’t hoard waves
Just because you’re able to catch every
wave that comes through, doesn’t mean that
you should. If you’re at a beachbreak and
you’ve gotten three or four rides in a
row, let someone else have one for a change.
If there’s a small group in the water,
wait your turn. Don’t paddle around chasing
every wave – pick one, and let the others
go by. By the same token, when you do choose
to go on a wave, make a commitment and go. Many
novices don’t realize that by paddling
for a wave and then pulling back at the last
second, they’ve wasted a ride for someone
else, which in turn clogs the lineup that much
more. And all you “nine footers” out
there take note: there is nothing more contemptible
than a longboarder who tries to paddle after
every wave. Shame on you!
I think the most difficult aspect of increasing
crowds and additional novices in the lineup is
this: the totally dedicated, passionate, and experienced
surfer has sacrificed so much of their life to
surfing, that the thought of some beginner who
has put in neither the time nor the dedication
taking away from their livelihood, their reward
if you will, is almost unbearable. This explains
why we see such fierce territorialism and so many
altercations in the water. Outsiders, even other
water sports enthusiasts, can’t possibly
understand it, for in what other sport are careers,
relationships, even families sacrificed solely
for the pursuit of waves?
Not that we as a group should condone it, but
why do you think a “local” completely
blows his cool and verbally or physically assaults
another surfer? Could it be that he has given
up practically everything just to be at a particular
spot, on a particularly good day, and to take
off on a particularly good set wave? Only to have
someone who is completely inexperienced –
or more importantly, ignorant – stumble into
the situation, get in the way, and ruin the wave
that could have made the dedicated surfer’s
day, maybe even their year. In no situation should
violence be acceptable (except perhaps to protect
oneself), but neither then should be intentional
forms of disrespect.
The surfing environment acts as a mirror image
of our society on land, which is often muddled
with intolerance, impiety, and violence. Limited
waves only serve to magnify this reflection. Lack
of leadership from experienced surfers along with
ignorance from neophytes only perpetuates the
problem.
It’s been asked before,"Can surfing’s
soul be saved?"I’m not sure about being
“saved,” but here’s a crazy thought:
how about starting with a little bit of courtesy
in the water?
Give a wave. - DL
© 2003 Dane Larson/SurfPulse
For more articles by Dane Larson and many
others, visit
www.surfpulse.com.
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