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The episode begs the question: whatever
happened to surfing etiquette in the water?
Is it disappearing altogether?
The recent wave of popularity in the sport
of surfing has put more pressure on lineups
than ever before. But its also a different
kind of pressure than in days past. Many
of the new entrants to the lineups are beginning
and intermediate surfers. Once more, most
have not learned much if anything about
surfing etiquette. They may not even know
that such a concept exists (or used to exist).
They only know what they see and experience,
and with the breakdown of the traditional
hierarchy that once was so prevalent at
surf spots, theres nothing to see
but chaos: scramble to get as many waves
as you can; be aggressive; paddle for every
wave that comes your way.
| The
Basics -(as posted at Steamer Lane in
Santa Cruz) |
| First
surfer on the wave has the right of
way |
| Hang
on to your board |
| Help
other surfers |
Steve Barilotti, in his recent piece in
Surfer magazine, Localism Works, argues
that the breakdown of localism at many spots
has had negative side effects, including
a loss of pride, pecking order, security,
and etiquette. With no visible hierarchy
whats
left is a testy asocial anarchy, where an
heirloom break such as Rincon or Kirra becomes
simply a common trough to be used
or abused and forgotten until its
time to log a few more waves, says
Barilotti. Many surfers are becoming
increasingly alienated from their ocean
culture and environment.
In Santa Cruz, the city is working in response
to the issue of growing crowds and increasing
altercations in the water by putting together
a brochure designed to teach basic surfing
rules. Called The Surfing Way, its
enough to make most hardened locals cringe.
But gone are the days of self-regulated
lineups. Surf spot hierarchies, the same
ones that for years served to police
and enforce rules at surf breaks,
have all but broken down. Is a dainty brochure
for beginners on the rules of
surfing the answer? Hardly. But it could
educate novices on how to avoid trouble.
Santa Cruz Surf Shop in Capitola has also
taken a proactive approach to teaching etiquette
in the surf. Beginning in June, the owners
will offer wave-riding clinics for beginners,
in hopes of easing tensions in lineups,
and making the water safer. Theyre
also providing a three page-guide on surfing
etiquette with every board rental out of
their shop. While these measures might address
in small part the issue of newcomers to
the sport, they do not deal with the larger
concern: increasing anarchy in the water.
The ocean has always been the ultimate
Darwinian domain, the Great Equalizer. It
doesnt matter who you are, how rich
you might be, how accomplished an athlete
you are, or what your land status might
otherwise be. Once you enter the water,
all bets are off. What counts as a surfer
is how you conduct yourself, be it through
sheer skill, goodwill, respect for others
(or lack thereof) or, in certain cases,
intimidation. At times the ocean and surf
will kick your ass, regardless of your skill
level. At others, youll have to deal
with tense crowds and complex sociological
dynamics in the lineup.
The Surfing Way as it were
cannot dictate rules in an endeavor thats
inherently non-conforming. Surfing is not
pre-packaged and controllable. Therere
no tee times, referees, or penalty flags.
Its savage and wild and chaotic, like
the nature of the ocean itself. That is
in large part the allure: to tame the wild
beast, slay the uncontrollable dragon. But
with that wildness comes a social order
thats freeform and spontaneous. The
only laws that exist are ones that are self-imposed
and self-enforced. The surfing lineup
is the ultimate playground environment,
and if a bully comes up and steals your
ball, youd better be able to take
care of yourself. That doesnt necessarily
mean with violence or aggressive behavior,
either. One of the most useful skills on
the playground is the ability to avoid trouble
before it starts, or to know how to diffuse
a situation quickly.
I liken surfing, at least at certain spots,
to a tough, inner-city hoops game on the
south side of Chicago in the heat of the
summertime. You cant expect to just
walk up to the court as a stranger, with
your shiny new Nikes on and scream, I
got next! If you do, you better be
a pretty damn good player, or be adept at
making some fast friends, or both. If youre
not, or cant, then hey maybe
you just dont belong there.
Mike Klassen (name changed), a regular
at Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz, says that
although there are no longer as many heavies
policing the lineup, there are still unspoken
rules that exist. Among others, according
to Klassen, If you botch a good wave
and youre not a regular, you become
invisible for the rest of the day.
He also thinks that too often infrequent
visitors show up to a spot with a sense
of entitlement to the waves. If youre
a rookie and dont know any locals,
you are never up (for the next
wave), he says. Unfair rules? Perhaps.
But in an age of growing crowds and decreasing
respect for hierarchy, these rules maintain
a certain order in the water.
That being said, there is some basic protocol
that is well-known to experienced surfers:
the first surfer on a wave or the one closest
to the curl has the right of way; always
hang on to your board; help other surfers.
All great surfing rules to live by, but
subject only to the moral compass of each
individual surfer. Its shocking how
often those simple customs are blatantly
ignored, even mocked. While the first deals
with right of way and does not address the
issue of equipment and corresponding paddling
capability (Ill get to that in a minute),
the second two are basic safety principles.
Yet how often have you seen an ignorant
surfer bail their board directly in front
of other surfers? In front of you? When
was the last time you witnessed one surfer
helping another surfer at your local break?
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